Beets Growing Guide

Beets belong to the Chenopodioideae family, which is a subfamily of the flowering plant family Amaranthaceae, that also includes Swiss Chard and Spinach. Beets were known for a long time as "blood turnips" and were eaten for their greens, not the root. Beets come in yellow or striped varieties beside the traditional dark blood-red. They are full of nutrients from the tips of their leaves to the tip of their root and they have a sweet and earthy flavor. Both the roots and leaves are edible. Whether beets are used in soups to salads, steamed, roasted, grilled, pickled or dried, beets deserve a place at the table. Here at Old Oak Homestead we love to juice and pickle beets. But one of our favorite ways to eat beets is after roasting and peeling them, to simmer them in an orange juice, honey and garlic glaze and serve!

How to Grow Beets

Beets like cooler weather of spring and fall and grow best in deep, moist and well drained soil.

Beets planted in early summer will result in unappetizing root textures in many cases.

Beets need soil that has a neutral pH between 6.5 pH and 7.0 pH

Seeds can be planted directly in the soil or they can be started indoors and transplanted.

When sowing indoors for transplant, sow 3 seeds in each cell plug. Once they have germinated and have grown at least 2 true leaves, transplant the whole plug. Do not try and separate and transplant as they will not transplant well. Simply plant the whole plug. If you have more than three sprouts once the seeds have germinated, thin to only 3 prior to transplanting. Don't throw away the thinned beet seedling, eat it! It makes a great micro green!

For good yields of tender roots, irrigate appropriately and make sure that your soil is healthy with good biology.

Depending on the variety, beets can take anywhere from 35 days (Bull Blood) to 76 days (Lutz Winter Keeper) to fully mature.

Choose a location in full sun to plant beets. They need at least 6 hours of sunlight.

Beets grow well in containers, just make sure that the container is deep enough, at least 18 inches, to accommodate the root and that the container is big enough so that there is sufficient room around each beet as it grows.

Our Favorite Beets To Grow

There is quite a large number of beet varieties to choose from. These are some of our favorite beets to grow.

Plant Spacing

Sow seeds 1/2 to 1/4 inch deep

Rows 12 inches apart

Sow Directly into soil the from February through early June and again in September for a fall harvest.

Plant 6 plants per foot for fresh beets

Plant 3 plants per foot winter storage

Beets can be sown indoors in trays and are easily transplanted as seedlings in the garden.

An alternative to the traditional way to sow beets, is to multi sow beets in a single cell plug. Place 3 seeds in a cell. Once germinated and have at least 2 real leaves, transplant the whole plug. Do not try and thin and transplant the thin seedlings as the chances of crop failure is high.

Soil and Irrigation

As a general rule, beets require 1 inch of water a week. This will vary depending on weather, and if you use mulch or wood chips on your beds as these help retain moisture.

Using drip irrigation is preferable as this helps to keep the soil moist at appropiate levels.

Consistent watering is essential. If the ground gets to dry the roots will not develop.

Watering well and consistently after planting is going to be the most important thing for adequate germination.

Beets grow best in looser soils. Clay soils need to be amended with compost and organic matter to break up clay. This will make it easier for the roots to push through the soil.

Amending the soil with good compost and organic matter will ensure that it is loose enough for the roots to grow. This needs to be done well ahead of planting.

Beetroot plant. Fresh beetroot grows in the garden..jpg

Benefits of Beets

Beets are loaded with a ton of nutrients that pack quite a nutritional punch. Beets are low in calories and high in phytonutrients, healthy compounds produced by plants. Throughout history the Romans used beets to treat all kinds of diseases from constipation and improving circulation to fighting fevers. It's no wonder this humble vegetable is the focus of a multitude of research studies focusing on its healing powers. Beets are low in fat and high in fiber.

Half a cup of boiled beets contains 0.15 grams of fat and 1.7 grams of fiber.

Metabolism Health

Research suggests Beets have a potential hypoglycemic effect. These studies have shown a significant reduction in blood glucose level, as well as an improved glycemic and insulin response. Polyphenols, flavonoids, nitrates, and other bioactive compounds play a critical part in beets affect on blood sugar levels. Research also suggests beets may modulate gut microbiota functions towards diabetes remission. Therefore, red beetroot could be considered as a part of healthy diet for diabetic patients.

Heart Health

Beets are high in nitrates which research suggests improve cardiovascular health in several ways. Some studies show beetroot juice supplementation may lower blood pressure and increase blood flow. It increases oxygen uptake, lengthening the time it takes to become fatigued, which allows people to stay active longer.

Brain Health

Beets are rich in vitamins C, A and K, all contribute to good bone health, along with several other B vitamins. This may help protect against dementia and memory loss by improving blood flow to the brain. Check out the full nutritional composition of beets here.

Cancer Prevention

Beets also contain antioxidants, compounds in foods that help repair DNA and maintain good cell health, and they have anti-inflammatory properties, reducing the risk for numerous chronic diseases. Because of this, the beet is gaining popularity as a nutritional approach in managing cardiovascular disease and cancer.

Disclaimer: This information has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and it is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. For educational purposes only.

Harvesting, Preserving, and Storing Beets

Beet and beet greens can be harvested throughout the winter at any time!

On the back of the seed packet is the number of days it will take for beets to ready for harvest. This can be anywhere from 35 days to 76 days.

The shoulder of the beet should be sticking out the ground and should be at least 1 inch in diameter. The diameter size of the beet can vary depending upon the variety.

Beets can be overwintered by adding 12 -18 inches of straw or leaves around them. Alternatively they can be covered with a row cover to protect against frost.

Beet greens can be dehydrated or freeze dried and stored appropriately for use in your favorite recipes.

Dealing with Common Beet Pests

As passionate gardeners, we understand the excitement of nurturing our plants, but we also know that pesky pests can be a challenge! That’s why we compiled a list of the most common pests that might be lurking around your crops. Let’s conquer these challenges together and keep our gardens thriving!

Aphid

Aphids are small, 1/16- to 1/8-inch-long (2-4 mm), pear-shaped, soft-bodied insects. They can range in color from green, black, red, yellow, brown or gray.

Symptoms:

Symptoms of severe aphid feeding include twisted and curled leaves, yellow foliage, stunted or dead shoots, poor plant growth.

Mosaic virus in beets is caused by Aphids.

Leaf Miner

The term "leafminer" is used to refer to the larvae of the leaf miner fly that develops and feeds inside the leaves of plants.

Symptoms:

Damage occurs in both the upper and lower sides of the leaves. Leafminer larvae form visible tunnels as they feed within
leaf tissue.

In beets, damaged caused by leaf miners can result in poor photosynthesis and lead to poor root development.

Cutworm

Larvae are dull gray to brown (depending on the species). Cutworms notably curl into a 'C' when they are disturbed. Cutworms are most active and cause the most damage during spring and early summer months.

Symptoms:

Larvae feed with chewing mouthparts and can clip off seedlings at the soil line reducing stands. Later in the season, fruit and foliage may be damaged. Wilted plants may be the result of damaged stem due to feeding.

Flea Beetle

Small round holes in leaves and insects that jump like fleas are two signs that a plant is infested with flea beetles. These shiny oval beetles may be black, brown, bronze, or striped and are only 1/10 inch long.

Symptoms:

A light infestation of flea beetles is characterized by tiny round pits or holes in leaves, creating a shot-hole pattern. Heavier infestations may cause bleached or pitted areas, ragged holes, or even total loss of leaves resulting in wilted or stunted plants.

Flea beetles may also be vectors for transmission of diseases such as bacterial wilt in corn.

Spider Mites

The two-spotted spider mite and the red spider mite being the most common in the United States. Their colors can range from red, green, yellow, orange, to even brown. They have two main body parts and eight legs. Spider mite infestations are particularly common during hot, dry summer weather.

Sypmtoms: The signs that you have spider mites include, mottled yellow-brown spots on leaves, leaf curl, leaf drop and the telltale sign of webbing. Spider mites are very hard to see.

Beet Army Worm

As their name suggests, Armyworms move in large numbers. Armyworms feed on the tender new growth of their host plants, sometimes consuming whole plants before moving in groups to the next plant.

Symptoms:

Army worms can strip a plant bare overnight, leaving only the veins behind. You'll also noticepillar droppings on the leaves near their feeding areas.

Beet Cyst Nematodes

Beet cyst nematodes are microscopic parasitic plant worm that is specific to its host. The cysts form on the roots and contain eggs of nematodes that when they hatch suck the juices of the plants roots, killing the plant.

Symptoms:

Symptoms can include reduced leaf growth and out leaves become yellow and wilted during the heat of the day.The taproot tends to be stunted with fibrous “bearded roots,” somewhat similar in appearance to plants with Rhizomania. The cysts can be white-yellow and they are lemon shaped.

Leafhopper

The leafhoppers are a large and diverse family of sap-sucking, hopping insects. Wherever there are plants there are leafhoppers! Their body form look a lot like cicadas — only much smaller!

Symptoms:

The beet leafhopper carries not only the beet curly top virus from plant to plant but the citrus stubborn disease also. Beet Curly Top Virus also damages plants in the potato or nightshade family, including chilis, eggplant, tobacco, and tomato.

Insect and Bug Guides

Our Insect and Bug Guides are here to help you prevent and manage insect and bug problems in your garden.

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A bunch of purple beets with green leaves. The beets are all different sizes and are piled

Dealing with Common Beet Diseases

Get ready to take control of plant diseases! Understanding and managing these challenges is well within your reach. Check out list of common plant diseases, and together, we’ll conquer them! Let’s empower your plants to thrive like never before!

Cercospora Leaf Spot

The fungus Cercospora beticola affects both leaves and bulbs, with potentially serious yield losses. High temperatures and humidity, typically in late summer, increase damage.

Symptoms:

Small round leaf spots (3-5 mm diameter) are first found on older leaves then transfer to younger leaves. Tan to light brown centres have reddish-brown borders. In heavy infections, spots coalesce and leaves turn brown but stay attached to the plant.

Alternaria Leaf Spot

Alternaria leaf spot is caused by various species of fungi in the Alternaria genus. This disease thrives in humid and hot conditions.

Symptoms:

Small, round lesions will appear on the leaves. The lesions may fall out, leaving holes, or they can merge and cause parts of the leaf to turn brown and necrotic.

While the damage is mostly cosmetic, it may still interfere with the plant photosynthesizing insufficiently.

Southern Blight

Southern blight, also called southern wilt, southern stem rot, southern root rot and other names, results from infection by the soil borne fungus Sclerotium rolfsii.

Symptoms:

It survives in the soil tan to brown, round sclerotia. The sclerotia resemble mustard seeds in size and color and the fungus is sometimes referred to as the "mustard seed fungus." Plants are attacked at the soil line or below ground. The fungus produces abundant white hyphae or mycelia around infected parts and in and on the soil. This causes stem rot, discolored crown/stem lesion at the soil line, discoloration of lower leaves, wilting, plant collapse, and death.

Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial leaf spot (aka bacterial blight) in beets is a disease caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae pv. aptata. The bacteria thrives in moist, warm conditions.

Symptoms:

Leaves will exhibit circular spots with irregular edges. The spots will look dry, with a brown or tan color on the interior and dark borders. Often the spot can run together and the leaves can eventually drop off. It is spread by water, and via rain or irrigation, as well as by aphids.

Beet Curly Top

This disease is caused by a variety of different viruses in the Geminiviridae family.

Symptoms:

If your plant has it, you’ll notice the leaves crinkling and curling inward. They may also be stunted, small, and discolored, with purple margins. The main sign of infection is swollen veins on the bottom half of leave and the stems become stiff.

The roots will become twisted and will not be able to take up nutrients. The plant will turn yellow and stop growing. This will cause the beet plant not to be able to photosynthesize correctly and the plant will die.

Beet Mosaic Virus

This disease, known scientifically as BtMV, is caused by viruses in the Potyvirus genus.

Symptoms:

Beet mosaic virus causes plants to develop mottling and speckling on their leaves. Symptoms usually appear on the leave first. The infection causes chlorosis (pale or yellowish color) along leaf veins on younger leaves. Eventually most of the leaf will end up covered with the virus.

As the leaves get older, leaf curling can occur. Fruit distortion, overall stunting of the plant, or death of the plant can also be a result of this virus.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildews, are pathogenic fungus like water molds that primarily damage foliage. It is host specific and survives in plant debris or on infected plants.

Symptoms:

Symptoms of downy mildew, which can affect cucumbers, squash, melons, and spinach include tan to dull yellow angular lesions (spots) that enlarge.

These spots first appear on leaves at the center of the plant. Lesions then grow between the small leaf veins and brown areas can appear on leaf undersides. In wet weather, a fine gray to purplish mold can also be observed on leaf undersides.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is the name given to diseases resulting from infection by fungi that affect the leaves of beets and sometimes other parts of the plant.

Symptoms:

If your plant has it, it will develop a white to gray powdery look on the upper and lower surfaces leaves and possibly the stems. The spores of the fungi that causes powdery mildew can become airborne and can affect other plants in your garden.

It likes warm weather, cool nights and moderate temperatures. Really hot weather 95F and above some fungal spores and colonies can die. However, shade and humidity favors powdery mildew.

Beet Growing Tips & Tricks

For a continuous harvest of beets and tasty greens, sow the seeds at two week intervals throughout the entire growing season. Unlike other cool weather crops, beets will germinate in soils up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Beet seeds tend to germinate easily and reliably but if you’re having trouble, consider soaking the seeds ahead of planting for 16 hours or so.

In many growing zones, you can over winter beets either for seed or for food.

Rough, brown patches on the skin and stunted growth of your beets are often signs of soil that is too acidic.

Companion planting beets with alliums like onions and garlic will protect against mites, slugs, cutworms and maggots.

They get sweeter with frost and will last in colder temperatures with a 12 to 18 inch layer of mulch over them.

They are most often grown in spring and fall but can be seeded again in August as well.

Interplant Beets between crops of brassicas like cabbage, kale, or Brussels sprouts.

Beets also really like to be planted right after a planting of beans due to the nitrogen fixing capabilities of beans. Check out our blog post here on how beans fix nitrogen to the soil.

Beetroot harvest, plant with green leaves, tops growing in soil ground on garden bed. Harv

Check Out Our Beetroot Varieties

Shop Beet Seeds

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Beets Growing Guide

Our Favorite Beets To Grow

Soil and Irrigation

Benefits of Beets

Metabolism Health

Heart Health

Brain Health

Cancer Prevention

Harvesting, Preserving, and Storing Beets

Dealing with Common Beet Pests

Aphid

Leaf Miner

Cutworm

Flea Beetle

Spider Mites

Beet Army Worm

Beet Cyst Nematodes

Leafhopper

Insect and Bug Guides

Insect and Bug Guide: Spider Mites

Insect and Bug Guide: Cutworm

Insect and Bug Guide: Leaf Miner

Insect and Bug Guide: Aphids

Insect and Bug Guide: Leafhopper

Dealing with Common Beet Diseases

Cercospora Leaf Spot

Alternaria Leaf Spot

Southern Blight

Bacterial Leaf Spot

Beet Curly Top

Beet Mosaic Virus

Downy Mildew

Powdery Mildew

Check Out Our Beetroot Varieties

Old Oak Homestead: The Growing Library

Complete Growing Guides Collection

The Soil Food Web

Composting And The Unsung Hero: Oxygen

The Importance of Water in Maintaining a Healthy Garden

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